Jacquemus

Simon Porte Jacquemus

History

The Provençal and peasant origins, the escape from the south of France, the disappointment of Paris and the rebirth with his brand in the Montmartre atelier: the life of one of the most loved and famous stylists in Paris, and in the world, today could be summarized in these four phases. But there is much more behind the collections of Simon Porte Jacquemus, the young artist who has been able to conquer everyone with a romantic style inspired by the 90s and pastel colors.

Jacquemus was born on January 16, 1990 in Salon de Provence, but grew up in Mallemort, in the south of France, together with his mother and brother. Although his family does not come from the world of fashion, at the age of 18 he begins to devote himself entirely to one great passion, fashion. Of humble origins, Simon's parents, in fact, are farmers from Provence, a place that will greatly influence Simon's style: the fields of lavender, wheat, the skies, the flowers and the vegetation that surround him will help him form the his taste and his recognizable style, especially for the colors.

Simon's dream as a boy was to move to Paris, where he could breathe and experience the suggestions that have always inspired him: cinema, especially Godard, French art and fashion. After many sacrifices, Simon Jacquemus not only manages to reach the capital, but also enrolls in Esmod, to study fashion. Unfortunately, however, Paris does not turn out as Simon imagines it. These are also the months following her mother's death, a difficult period because she loses her only true point of reference and her muse. Luckily Simon Jacquemus' crisis is only temporary: a year later he reinvents himself, starting from scratch. Jacquemus the stylist opens his first ready-to-wear fashion atelier in Montmartre and baptizes it simply Jacquemus, after his mother's maiden name, which he intends to pay homage to. Since then Simon has been designing clothes for the girl who was his mother, continuous fulcrum and inspiration for his creativity steeped in memories and poetry.

His style is minimal and spontaneous, an expression of a pastel-colored romanticism. The cuts of the garments are clean and essential, with a vintage taste and references to the 90s: the mainly recognizable elements remain pockets, zips and buttons, while the rest is reduced to a minimum. All this does not take away the sensuality of the woman imagined by Jacquemus, but exalts her, in all her femininity. The designer soon made himself noticed by the managers of the Comme des Garçons brand, with whom he began collaborating in 2010. Fortunately, Simon Jacquemus's crisis was only temporary: a year later he reinvented himself, starting from scratch. Now let's talk about the present of the designer Jacquemus who opens his first ready-to-wear fashion atelier in Montmartre and baptizes it simply Jacquemus, like his mother's maiden name, which he intends to pay homage to. Since then Simon has been designing clothes for the girl who was his mother, continuous fulcrum and inspiration for his creativity.

Jacquemus "La Montagne" The Fall Winter 2021 men's women's collection. After the fields of lavender, wheat and the sea, Jacquemus takes us to the mountains. Highly anticipated, as every time, the La Montagne fashion show by Simon Porte Jacquemus brings a Fall Winter 2021 men's and women's collection to the catwalk see now buy now. In a hilly setting that recalls a stereotyped synthesis of the mountain landscape, the French designer presents his new mountain-inspired creations. Energetic colors, starting from light blue, up to orange, neon yellow, intense red, fuchsia, lime combined with more neutral ones, white, black, cream and brown. The French designer offers a version of mountain-wear clothing.

Dresses decompose revealing parts of the body and necklines rolled up as if they were a sleeping bag. Jackets, shirts and tops are cropped above the waist for both men and women. In the co-ed fashion show La Montagne Jacquemus also presents extra short puffer jackets, sleeveless knitwear, a crossover between bra and cardigan, combined with cycling, padded and cargo pants that can also be transformed into the short version. In the Fall Winter 2021 collection there is no shortage of references to mountain clothing. Hints of free climbing with ropes, carabiners and a reinterpretation of climbing shoes. Trekking inspirations with utility excursion accessories: hats with ear flaps, fanny packs, hiking shoes.

For the first collection abroad, Jacquemus chooses an exceptional location: Hawaii. What better place to present the "Le Splash" Spring Summer 2022 collection than the place that par excellence represents the sea, the sun, the ocean and summer. Working specifically with local talent, Jacquemus' goal was to leave as little impact as possible on the island, prioritizing the ecosystem and leaving the local flora and fauna undisturbed.

The fashion show, a very long catwalk positioned on the beach with the Ko'olau mountains in the background, is colorful and immediately catches the eye. The "Le Splash" Spring Summer 2022 collection is completely dedicated to the sea, its colours, its movements, its creative force.

There are intense blue dresses - reminiscent of David Hockney's paintings - there are references to water sports - both in silhouettes and in details - like life jackets transformed into puffed sleeves, snorkel suits become captivating one piece leather. Also on the catwalk are the suits which, for the summer occasion, are transformed into real "sparkling candelabra": in fact, they are decorated with glass drops created by the Canadian artist Tanya Lyons, which recall drops of water. "Le Splash" remains the quintessence of Jacquemus: there are the brand's icons, such as the ecru linen, the elegant casual aesthetic and the most famous bags (such as the Chiquito, the Sac Round or the Bambinou) and there are the new , like Le Bomba, the it-bag for next season.

"Le Splash" remains the quintessence of Jacquemus: there are the brand's icons, such as the ecru linen, the elegant casual aesthetic and the most famous bags (such as the Chiquito, the Sac Round or the Bambinou) and there are the new , like Le Bomba, the it-bag for next season. SS22 reflects on the differences and contrasts between life in the city and life on the island: minidresses and jumpsuits are therefore more comfortable and relaxed, there are sarongs, swimsuits, and towels that recall a sunny summer afternoon. Everything is outlined in a wide choice of shades, after blue, the protagonist color, also hot pink, orange, lime green and many others.

An important role for Simon's success has been played by social media: Jacquemus, in fact, on Instagram does not pose as the unattainable and mysterious fashion icon behind his own brand. Instead, he shows the backstage and background of his ideas and collections, along with elements that could represent the designer's moodboard. In short, this is how the naive world of Jacquemus meets the smart sense of communication and business.

"Le Papier" the sentimental fashion show by Jacquemus at the Camargue Salt Pans. A dive into childhood, a dedication by Simon-Porte Jacquemus to his grandmother Liline with an impressive collection that all begins with "a blank sheet". Jacquemus' autumn-winter 2022-23 fashion show entitled "Le Papier" is staged at the Saline della Camargue.

A sweet return to Provence. In the enchanting natural setting of the Camargue Park, also known as the Camargue Salt Pans of Arles, Simon-Porte Jacquemus stages the new collection entitled "Le Papier". A title that literally means "blank sheet" as if to indicate the extreme starting point of each collection which is metaphorically given back by the absolute white setting and the salt dunes of the reserve. Although the creative director has repeatedly rejected the label of the seasonality of his collections, the fashion show corresponds to the season of the autumn-winter 2022-23 women's and men's fashion collection.

Not only a return to his places of origin but also a tribute to his grandmother Liline, who had introduced Simon's passion for fashion when she took him to browse the traditional flea markets. For this reason, in the "Le Papier" fashion show, the designer brings references to cult objects from the south of France: Provençal tablecloths, centerpieces, furnishing ribbons, sheets and white tulle curtains. A dedication to his origins and to his childhood spent in places set in the mind of the creative director.

Jacquemus' women's collection wears, train tops, silk lingerie, draped crisp white cotton dresses, and white drawstring dresses that create artful ribbing on the feminine silhouette. Very fine embroideries, ultra-feminine decorative straps, three-dimensional knots that drape the garments and showers of floral fringes. And then the structured winter selection with utilitarian trench coats, soft sheepskin, puffer jackets and a triumph of shearling that is omnipresent throughout the collection. The "Le Papier" men's wardrobe is structured with minimally cut tailored jackets, shirts, double-breasted linen waistcoats with lapels, knitwear tank tops, padded accessories that become an integral part of the outerwear and harnesses made with fettuccine used as ornamental styling elements.

Jacquemus' women's collection wears, train tops, silk lingerie, draped crisp white cotton dresses, and white drawstring dresses that create artful ribbing on the feminine silhouette. Very fine embroideries, ultra-feminine decorative straps, three-dimensional knots that drape the garments and showers of floral fringes. And then the structured winter selection with utilitarian trench coats, soft sheepskin, puffer jackets and a triumph of shearling that is omnipresent throughout the collection.

The "Le Papier" men's wardrobe is structured with minimally cut tailored jackets, shirts, double-breasted linen waistcoats with lapels, knitwear tank tops, padded accessories that become an integral part of the outerwear and harnesses made with fettuccine used as ornamental styling elements.

The Meaning of The Palette

The palette of the collection is limited to a few colors: olive, ink, terracotta, brown and of course white, because white is the color that should be used to paint a new era.

The thinker Jean Baudrillard recounts in the work "Pataphysics and the art of seeing" that we are in a phase of 'whitewashing' understood as an era of revisionism, and says that it is necessary to take into account some process dynamics to put the counters to zero to start again towards another story. A tendency to worry about the origin, to discover where we come from, where everything is born, to find the zero point, to know where we started from to understand where we have arrived, or where we have not arrived.

Jacquemus opens his first boutique in Paris on Avenue Montaigne. After a presence in various corners and outlets around the world, Jacquemus takes its place among the great fashion houses by settling on the famous Avenue Montaigne. On September 27, 2022, Jacquemus opens the doors of "La Boutique Montaigne", the brand's brand new boutique concept in Paris. Located in one of the largest shopping streets in the world, at 58 Avenue Montaigne, the boutique extends over two floors of a building built in the early 20th century in Art Deco style. The boutique builds on Simon's recent 'Le Papier' show presented in Arles where linen is explored extensively throughout the collection.

The shop is marked by purity and playfulness: it is entirely clad in ecru and there is a strong divertissement character with references to pop culture, such as the extra-large popcorn machines.

Jacquemus Sunglasses

Jacquemus sunglasses are representative of Simon's approach to fashion in general. They express a personal point of view. They are the unequivocal signature of the boy from the South who has been able to draw a counter-trend line in the homogenized and dehumanized fashion panorama of the last ten years.

Simon Porte has never declared himself underground. He doesn't belong to any subculture. He creates out of need. He has a sincere love for clothes and for women, to whom he has restored femininity and elegance through shapes. The dry and gentle ones of the clothes, with touches of deliberate imprecision, with games of proportions, romanticism and irony. But also the asymmetrical and surrealist eyewear, with super bright colors and bold frames.

Les Lunettes Soleil dazzle in their primary colors: green, red and blue. Les Carrés Riviera have a squared and exaggeratedly oversized silhouette instead, for a mischievous and playful woman.

The strength of these creations is their freshness and spontaneity. Simon is only thirty years old but has a lot to tell. He is one of the most prominent stylists of his generation, and his strength lies precisely in the ability not to lose one's roots. In the need to express the lightness and authenticity of the reality from which he comes. A reality that is not only geographical, but cultural and based on values.

On the other hand, to this day, there seems to be no risk that Simon will lose his carefree spirit. To define himself, he writes: Je m’appelle Simon, j’aime le bleu et le blanc, les rayures, le soleil, les fruits, les ronds, la vie, la poésie, Marseille et les années 80.

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